Welcome to the Nerf Wiki, MenacePotatoe! Thanks for your edit to the Twenty-five dart drum page. We hope you stick around to further help the wiki.
We're both good references my friend. You can go with either a Worker reduction tube, or a CPVC tube held in place with some electrical tape. In the end, they'll both cost you about the same, $20. On the other hand, if you want a guy like me to take care of that for you, just e-mail me.
Yeah, shipping a blaster to New York itself would cost about 15 bucks...my plan would be to use a CPVC tube with electrical tape, but I need to know a couple things:
1. What thickness of CPVC?
2. Would I need to remove and AR or something?
I would have been your daddy... 15:34, August 27, 2016 (UTC)
RE: Achievement System
I have no interest in adding an achievement system. As much as I understand that achievements can make a user want to contribute more to the site, I feel like people spam edits on other wikis for the sake of getting them. Jet [Talk • Contributions] 09:43, November 30, 2015 (UTC)
Reloading and firing the Boss
Generally a good rule of thumb is not to change anything unless you know rather than don't know.
Criminy, I missed your post on my talk page. Sorry my friend. MenacePotato wrote:
I saw via your profile page that you own a BuzzBee Snipe. I just bought one, and it seems like a very flimsy gun. Is there a way to increase structural integrity?
Let me ask you, what part of your Snipe is flimsy? The reason I'm asking is I have one too, and for the price I was very impressed with its power, range, and accuracy. Mind you, I paid like $17 for it, so my expectations were really low.
Shoot me a message at email@example.com and I'll do what I can to help you out. I'm taking a break from Nerf Wiki. Some a hole deleted a bunch of my posts. I'm not happy. Apparently you can bash Muslims all you want, but if you say the word bi itch, you get censored. That's frick in bullsh it.
Reviews are going to be replaced eventually with that Performance section, so I'd feel bad if you spent your time writing a review just for it to be replaced. If you want to write one though, you can do so on the forums or in a blog post. Jet [Talk • Contributions] 21:53, June 26, 2016 (UTC)
My Centurions have never jammed. Granted, they have not been used very much in their lifetimes, and never battled, so I as their sole user have been able to baby them the whole time, always taking care and time to cycle the bolts fully back and forth.
Kids are more likely to be impatient and imprudent, and even more so during excited play, so reports of Centurions jamming under these conditions would make sense.
For what it's worth...
Amazon reviews of the Centurion, Retaliator, Rampage, etc. are plagued with reviews of stuff like, "Little Timmy's [insert name of blaster here] does nothing but jam. It says 6+ on the box, why can't little Timmy use it without jamming..."
I think really, little Timmy in this case can't cock the gun smoothly...
I would have been your daddy... 22:32, September 5, 2016 (UTC)
Nope, it's not that good. It's slow in both walking speed and firing speed, and it can easily be stepped on, which will be $80 down the drain. It's underpowered because it only has one motor that powers the flywheels, and it's the same motor that's used to move the head up and down. I actually needed to fix mine because there was a problem. The internal workings are actually quite interesting, and cheap on Hasbro's side.
I got mine on sale, which is slightly justified. It's definitely not worth the money, and I suggest if you really want a drone, get the Terrascout, although it's way to expensive. At the end of the day, a Rapidstrike strapped to an RC motor car is the real winner.
Nerf on, my spudly friend.
Ugh. The Terradrone thing looks like an improvement, but can stilll be kicked or stepped on, I think. I once had an RC Battle Tank that shot airsoft BBs. That thing was FUN. Plus it was 50 bucks USD instead of the 100 bucks USD that the TerraDrone costs.
I would have been your daddy... 02:53, November 2, 2016 (UTC)
I just don't think it's worth spending that kind of money on a fancy accessory that could be completely destroyed by one careless cowor, um, I mean combatant, or some imbesile that isn't paying attention to where they're walking. It would be a different story if this were $29.95 . But it's $200 (or more by all accounts)
Best to invest $200 in something you can fire first person. Just my two cents, for what it's worth gents.
ElliottW ElliottW 03:02, November 2, 2016 (UTC)
Exactly. Spend 200 big ones on buying two Hyperfires and a Mastodon...and then a boat-load of RadEagles.
I would have been your daddy... 12:06, November 2, 2016 (UTC)
Wow, that's a lot of questions my starchy friend. As far as I can decipher, Tacticool Foam is a reputable site. I've not ordered from them before, but PayPal has a 100% money back guarantee. So I'm pretty confident I'm not going to get screwed. Parts forthcoming. I'll let you know.
Hammershot 8kg spring. Dayum ! Can you cock, um, I mean prime that sucker with one hand ??? Look, the ABS plastic internals aren't going to put up with an 8kg spring for very long. I put in a full metal HammerShot kit from BlasterParts in my HS. I think that's a 6kg spring. The aluminium trigger wore out in a month. Had to do some creative machining to get it to continue to fire.
I'm going to veto the 8kg spring for the HammerShot. Too much spring for the stock internals. Sorry my friend.
RE: HyperFire Batteries and such
I am partial to these On The Way 2000mAh IMRs. There are better batteries out there, but for you non-modders these are safe and have the best performance I've found for the money. You'll also need a decent charger like a NiteCore D4.
These AA to D converters are a simple way to get IMRs into that Hyperfire of yours. You'll also need a couple dummy batteries. I found these inexpensive UltraCells on eBay. There are similar dummies on Amazon but they're gawd aweful expensive. But happy hunting Spud.
These AA to C converters work pretty well and they're dirt cheap.