I don't know everything about Rapidstrikes, but the motor that operates the pusher may be burnt out.

Did you attempt any modifications?

What does the internal look like?

There are a couple possible points of failure there, in two categories: Mechanical or Electrical.

If it's electrical, the trigger will do literally nothing. Could be a burned-out motor, OR just a bad switch or broken wire or solder connection.

If it's mechanical, the trigger will still spin the motor (which you will probably hear if you put your ear up to it), but a stripped or broken gear or linkage will make it not actually move the pusher.

Either way, you're gonna have to open it up to fix it, so open it up and look.

Here's what the mechanical parts should look like (snapped from random pics returned by an image search for "rapidstrike pusher" (one has an upgraded motor):

You have snatched the pebble from my hand. I'm so happy 😢 Pardon me, I need a moment.

Helpful Hints:

It's highly likely either the rev trigger switch, the pusher motor, or the pusher sensor switch has crapped out.

The first step is isolating the problem. Take a coin or a screwdriver and short out the contacts on the rev trigger switch. If the pusher starts moving, the rev switch is bad. If it doesn't start moving, then either the motor or the sensor switch is bad.

Open the pusher assembly carefully. Keep it flat so the gears don't fall out. The pusher assembly should be filled with lubricant. Don't remove any of it. More is better.

Use a 9 volt battery and touch the battery terminals to the motor terminals to determine whether the motor works. If it spins, then the pusher sensor is bad, in which case it's probably not worth fixing.

The pusher motor is a stock 130 motor. If it's burned out, you can cannibalize one from the flywheel cage of almost any Nerf® flywheel blaster. Even older N-Strike 130 motors are good candidates.

When replacing the motor, leave a small gap between the worm gear and the motor housing when fitting the gear onto the shaft. One or two millimeters works fine. If it's too close it will bind and cause problems.

@Elliottw im rewiring a stratohawk(still). Now ive watched Dr. Flux and Captain Xaviers rewires and they always seem to replace the pusher motor. Im 2s lipo'ing it w fang revamps and 16awg copper stranded wire. I wasnt going to replace the pusher motor but decided to replace it w a mishel 2.0 motor. Other than probably? faster rof is there any real reason to upgrade it? Thanks if you reply no worries if you dont...and good luck fixing that rapidstrike....my one thot was it could possibly just be hung up and to carefully see while revving amd firing it if you can help it out but all the previous answers are much better ways to check it.

Upgrading pusher motor means more firerate

So you can use some low torque high speed motors

@SkeemEastwood the only reason to upgrade the pusher motor is for greater rate of fire. The torque is irrelevant. Obviously a crappy stock 130 has enough torque to power it just fine.

But good news. If you're going 2S you'll see an automatic 20% increase in ROF due to the extra voltage. The stock 130 in the pusher will run just fine at 7.2 volts, there's no need to replace it.

One word of caution. You can't simply replace the pusher motor with a Meishel. You will get a runaway condition where the pusher moves too fast for the pusher return sensor to stop the motor. Once you pull the trigger, it will keep firing forever.

Either use a lower RPM motor like an RM-2 , or eliminate the pusher return sensor and take your chances where the pusher stops. The main drawback with the latter is the latency between shots.

That happens with mine. RapidStrikes are weird blasters