Board Thread:General Nerf discussion/@comment-28773666-20170107205502/@comment-27306930-20170119020626

Okay then, on both the Renegade and Prime I would put a finger actuated trigger button, rather than the Barricade style on/off switch. I haven't opened the Renegade yet, but I'm assuming it has the same crappy wiring as the Prime. I'd replace it all with 18 or 20 guage wire. While you're at it, remove the motor capacitors (the little black cylindrical component that goes between the motor contacts). Contrary to popular belief, they are not thermistors, rather simple electrolytic capacitors to comply with FCC electronic noise regulations. While they don't hurt performance, they are unnecessary. Out they go !

IMRs. That's all I have to say about that.

Actually, the Prime needed a battery holder because it's adapted for a single crappy 3.7v IMR cell with a proprietary molex connector. I bought a 2xAA batter holder with the 9volt style connector so that I could pop it in and out whenever I want to charge the batteries. No dummy batteries needed.

The Renegade has a traditional 4xAA battery box. I think you know what to do with that 😉

Motors, eventually. They look like 130s. I think Solarbotics RM2s would be in order. Honey Badgers seem like overkill. And I'm not sure I would ever consider WTW blasters a good platform for 180s or LiPos.

Now go get a proper e-mail account Spudnick.