Board Thread:General Nerf discussion/@comment-35749367-20180712212114/@comment-27306930-20180713030221

That's a really good choice for a second mod, Awesome. IMRs are a great option because you don't have to modify the battery box or the wiring. In fact, one of my favorite blasters is a modded Stryfe.

So about those batteries. Firstly, you'll need to pair the batteries with the motors. If you get 6 volt motors, then you'll want to run on two IMRs and two dummy cells. If you're going with 12 volt motors, then three IMRs and a dummy is safe, maybe four if you want to live dangerously.

Most Energizer brand Lithium batteries are not rechargeable. Take a closer look at the packaging. If it doesn't explicitly say "rechargeable" and "lithium-ion", then they're just standard one use lithium batteries. Unfortunately, Lithium ≠ Li-ion. I'm sure I don't have to tell you, but I just want to remind everyone else, you'll also need a special Li-ion charger. Google NiteCore D4

TrustFires on the other hand, don't generally produce the desired amount of current for Nerf applications. I won't lie, they will work, but you won't be happy with them in the long run IMHO. They konk-out at all the wrong times, with little warning. Anyway, those Worker 132s are really meant to be S3 LiPo. They're 12 volt and draw a considerable amount of current, probably more than IMRs can consistently provide. If you're using anything larger than a 130, skip the IMRs and go straight to LiPo.

But if you're staying with 130s, like a Honey Badger, Fang, or RM2, the simplest option is 3.7 volt IMRs with a 2000+ mAh rating. Also make sure they have protection circuitry. It's a long and complicated story, but you can easily ruin IMRs with no protection circuits if you're not paying close attention to the voltage. And when I say ruin, I mean catastrophic "set your blaster on fire" kind of ruin. I'm very serious, don't buy unprotected IMRs.

Good luck my friend !